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Frequently Asked Questions
What are some
considerations for my new home?
What is a Structured Wiring
System and why is it important for my home?
Home Automation- How does it make my home more intuitive
and comfortable?
What is High Definition
Television and is
it available today?
Can I incorporate your services into my
existing home?
What
are the different Surround Sound formats (Dolby Digital, DTS, THX, etc.)?
What are the different TV screen types (Plasma, CRT, LCD,
Rear Projection) and which is better?
Plasma vs. LCD : Which is better?
(CLICK HERE to download the full document)
What is Blu-ray?
What exactly is
HDMI?
Audio and Video Cables: Does Quality
Matter?
Do I really need a SURGE PROTECTOR / POWER CONDITIONER for
my equipment?
Why should I purchase equipment from Dynamic Audio Video
and not the internet?
What are some considerations for my new home?
Building Considerations
If you are building or remodeling a home, you probably want to
plan it for home electronics, now and in the future. Here are some simple things
to consider:
 | Are you interested in surround sound or a dedicated
media room? |
| Will you want music around the house? If so, will you want room-to-room control
of your music system? |
| Will you have one or more computers and will they need to
be networked?
|
| Will you have high-speed internet access? |
| Will you have TV via antenna, cable, satellite or all of
these? |
| Will there be adequate telephone jacks?
|
| Is answering your doorbell from any telephone a consideration?
|
| Will you want camera surveillance of your property? |
| Would you prefer one set of controls for lighting,
temperature, music, video, etc? |
Lots of decisions to be made. However, these
decisions are typically not high on the priority list of a new home owner during
the early stages of building a home. Thinking about the modern conveniences of
home electronics is sometimes put off until it is too late or, at the very least,
much more costly. If you examine a few of your preferences before the drywall
goes up, your electronic “after life” can be a lot more fulfilling.
The Possibilities
Most people’s thoughts on home electronics are
limited by their knowledge of what is possible. Here are a few thought-provoking
possibilities:
| Listen to different music sources in every room of your
home |
| Answer the door from the any telephone |
| Home Theater Projector and 100" Screen able to retract into
your ceiling and become invisible |
| Keep an eye on the house from a remote location such as
work |
| Watch the morning news THROUGH your bathroom mirror (see a
picture when TV is on, disappears into mirror when turned off) |
| Great video and better sound |
| Share the Home Theater with the rest of the house
|
| ONE set of controls…for EVERYTHING! |
What stages of construction are DYNAMIC
AUDIO VIDEO involved?
Our role on the construction site
The construction schedule puts our audio video
installations in a narrow time frame. In the early
stages of house construction, weather can delay a
project. Likewise, circumstances may make the
schedule go faster than planned. House
construction proceeds in stages. Here's how we think
we should schedule our work around the builder's
tasks (our steps are shown in highlighted in bold):
CONSTRUCTION STAGES
| Foundation |
| Framing and roof
|
| Plumbing rough-in
|
| Electrical rough-in
|
|
Audio,
video, Ethernet, and low voltage control
pre-wiring and rough-in
|
| Rough-in inspection
|
| Insulation installation
|
| Drywall installation
|
|
In-wall/in-ceiling speaker grilles and frames
— install them now if you want them painted
|
| Paint
|
| Plumbing and electrical trim out
|
|
Audio,
video, and Ethernet trim out —
install wall plates, controls,
in-wall/in-ceiling speakers
|
| Floor installation
|
| Final inspection (all holes, boxes, and
brackets must be closed)
|
| Move-in
|
| Install
and hook up audio video components
|
Top of page
What is a
Structured Wiring System and why is it important for my new home?
A Structured Wiring System simplifies and
enhances a homeowners lifestyle. It offers organized and centralized
distribution of today's low voltage wiring (cable TV,
satellite,
telephone,
internet,
ethernet, etc.) throughout a home.
This is the most efficient and effective way to provide wiring in a new
construction home. Basically, structured wiring consists of three elements: the
distribution panel, the cabling, and the outlets.
The
distribution panel, or service center, works like a sophisticated
switchboard. Outside services, including cable TV, telephone, DBS
satellite, and internet, enter the panel and are distributed throughout the
house. The system is similar to the one used by the electrical breaker
panel in the home to control electricity flow.
Certain
services such as digital cable, digital satellite, high speed internet, and HDTV
require the second part of the wiring system, high performance cables, to
allow full access throughout the home. Most systems include
RG-6
Quad Shielded coaxial cable for TV and video distribution, and
Category 5 or better twisted pair cable for telephone and
data. RG-6 Quad Shield coaxial cable provides maximum protection
from interference with the TV or Satellite picture. Category 5, 5e, or 6
cable provides high speed transmission of data or voice without cross talk or
outside interference.
Each room has
third part of the wiring system, the outlets, which can be customized to
each users specific needs based on which services they want in each room (cable
TV, Internet access, telephone, etc.) Outlets that feature connections for
voice, video, and data services on a single plate are known as multimedia or
universal service outlets.
One of the
reasons why it is important to use a modern structured wiring system is that the
older cable and wiring methods used by dealers in years past are not suitable
for today's types of services and those that will likely enter the home in the
future.
A typical
structured wiring system will include data cables for telecommunication, audio,
balanced-line video, computer data, and other applications. It will also include
coaxial cables for wide-band entertainment, such as satellite television, cable
television, HDTV, home-based composite video, and more. You may also include
digital fiber optic cables to add additional "Future Proofing" to your
home.
Here are some additional FAQ's
regarding today's advanced wiring standards:
What is
Category 5 Data Wiring (CAT 5)?
| 4 twisted pairs of high quality copper wire enclosed in an
outer jacket. |
| Used for phone, fax, modem, home networking, and
high-speed digital computer transmissions. |
| Supports four phone lines with one cable. |
| High immunity to interference. |
| Relative capacity: A garden hose. |
What is RG6 Quad Shield Coaxial Cable?
| Coaxial cable with insulated center wire and four layers of
shielding. |
| Supports hundreds of channels and digital data.
|
| Used for cable TV, digital satellite, HDTV, cable modem and
high-speed interactive video services. |
| High immunity to interference. |
| Relative capacity: A fire hose. |
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Types of modem/internet services:
What is a Modem?
| Used to transmit computer data over standard phone lines.
|
| Typically packaged in a new home computer. |
| Today's standard computer modems transmit up to 56,000 bits
per second. |
What is ISDN?
| ISDN stands for Integrated Services Digital Network.
|
| Digital equivalent of standard computer modem transmission.
|
| Transmits high-speed data three times faster than today's
standard modems (128,000 bits per second). |
| Service provided by the telephone company over high-quality
copper phone wire. |
What is DSL?
| DSL stands for Digital Subscriber Line service.
|
| Transmits high-speed data anywhere from 50 to 270 times as
fast as today's standard modems (1.5 million to 9 million bits per second).
|
| Service provided by the telephone company over high-quality
copper phone wire. |
What is Cable Modem Service?
| Cable modems transmit high-speed data up to 900 times
faster than today's analog computer modems (30 million bits per second).
|
| Since neighborhood users "share" available bandwidth,
actual data throughput speed might be slower. |
| Provided by the cable company over high-quality coaxial
cable. |
Top of page
What is Ethernet?
| Commercial networking standard for transmitting data
between computers. |
| Computers typically connected via cables to an Ethernet
hub. |
| Each computer must have an Ethernet network interface card.
|
| 10BaseT means the computers are connected with twisted pair
cable (CAT5) at 10 million bits per second data throughput. |
What is Digital Satellite?
| With Digital Satellite Service (DSS), video programs are
received by a small (18") satellite dish. |
| Signals are decoded at the TV with a set-top receiver.
|
| Local channels are NOW available in our area! |
What is Whole-House Video?
| Any video source can be seen on a specific channel on every
TV in the home. |
| VCR or DVD programs can be viewed on any TV. |
| Baby room camera allows sleeping infants to be watched over
from any room. |
| Front door camera enables screening for possible intruders. |
What is a Multi-Room Audio System?
| Any audio source (CD, Tuner, etc.) can be heard in any room
throughout your home. |
| Flush mount In-Ceiling or In-Wall speakers provide
aesthetic benefits. |
| Great for entertaining or just relaxing. |
| Capable of playing different sources in different rooms at
the same time. |
Top of page
The History of Home
Wiring...Telephone
The Past:
| Home telephone wiring was designed for voice only.
|
| Second lines were a luxury. |
| Since 1910, telephone outlets have been "daisy-chained"
together with low-grade telephone wire. |
| Poor quality cable and bad connections are subject to
noise, interference and "cross talk" (hearing other conversations).
|
| A single problem corrupts every phone outlet.
|
The History of Home
Wiring...Television
| Rooftop Antennas - Television broadcast were poor quality,
and very susceptible to interference from weather. |
| Cable TV (circa 1975) - Improved picture, more channels,
but still low picture quality by today's standards. |
| RG59 Coaxial Cable - Small conductor, very little shielding
and only moderate bandwidth. |
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Today's Modern Home Wiring
Top of page
Home
Automation- How does it make my home more intuitive and comfortable?
It’s the same old
routine each and every day…and you love it!
7:00 AM
Your ‘alarm’ goes off - a pleasant voice announces over the in-wall speakers in
your bedroom that “It’s time to wake up.” The curtains automatically open. The
room lights come up to a comfortable level. Your favorite music begins to play.
And the Weather Channel, with the sound muted, appears on your TV.
After a moment, you rise and head to the bathroom
to get ready for the day where music is already playing. With just a ‘tap’ to
the in-wall touch panel mounted beside the sink, you bring up the weather
channel as you brush your teeth. Satisfied that you won’t need an umbrella you
give the touch panel another ‘tap’ to start watching CNN Headline News.
The doorbell rings. The view on the touch panel
automatically switches to the front door camera. It’s UPS with an overnight
delivery. Not quite ready to face the world yet, you pick up the bathroom phone
and tell him to leave the package at the front door. Turning off the news, you
crank up the music and step into the shower.
When you head into the kitchen fifteen minutes
later, the coffee has just finished brewing. Two cups later you ‘tap’ the
kitchen touch panel before heading out the door. The audio/video system powers
down; the lights slowly dim until they’re off, the thermostat adjusts to its
‘daytime’ setting and the garage door automatically opens.
So begins your day when living with in a "Smart
Home".
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What is High Definition Television and is
it available today?
HDTV (high
definition television) is the new standard in television technology which
provides wide-screen picture quality similar to 35mm film along with compact
disc (CD) sound quality.
DTV (Digital Television)
is no longer just a mirage, shimmering on the horizon. Lots of people are
already enjoying its crystal-clear picture and sound — and raving about it to
their friends. Once you've seen
HDTV's ultra-sharp detail, lifelike depth, and vivid colors, regular TV seems
dull and lifeless. HDTV owners swear that high-def viewing is "like looking
through a window."
| There are many benefits to having
Digital TV and High Definition Television. Overall there are
numerous reasons to make the switch: Digital superiority,
amazing detail, progressive scanning, digital audio, no more
'ghost' images, the FCC mandating a switch, a wider viewing
area, better quality DVD playback and so on. We have listed the
major reasons in detail below.
The New Aspect Ratio
Current televisions are based upon the aspect ratio of 4:3.
This means a TV with an aspect ratio of 4:3 will be 3 feet high
and 4 feet wide. With HDTV the aspect ratio is 16:9, making the
image much wider than a normal TV. The new screen size is 33%
wider to be exact.
The increased width is a huge improvement because it allows
you to view TV and movies as if you were watching them in a
theater. When watching TV on a 16:9 screen you use your
peripheral vision, which truly makes you feel like you are a
part of the program.
Norm Samat, the directory of ABC's Monday Night Football HDTV
feed put it perfectly:
|
| "You
almost get into a trance looking at HDTV pictures because
you really see more. The wider 16:9 aspect ratio makes a big
difference in covering football. With the old 4:3 aspect
ratio screens it was often tricky to cover the defense. In
HDTV they are already in your picture, so you can see more
of the play develop." |
Resolution
The usual resolution a normal NTSC TV can display is 525 scan
lines with 480 actually being visible. The usual TV can display
a resolution of about 210,000 pixels per image. High Definition
TV's can go all the way up to 1920 (horizontal) x 1080
(vertical) pixels, with a total of 2,073,600 pixels per image.
That is ten times the resolution and picture
quality. Ten times!
In fact, when you squeeze all these pixels down to the same
sized TV you get impeccable quality. Instead of stretching these
pixels out, they are crammed together so tight that resolutions
get as high and as sharp as they do.
Sound Quality
High Definition television also has 5.1 channels of
CD-quality surround sound (left, right, center, left rear, right
rear, and low frequency effects - AKA bass). These multiple
channels bring you true surround sound at an amazing quality.
With the older NTSC standard you only get two channels of
audio, which is just enough to make it stereo. With HDTV you are
listening to Dolby Digital/AC-3 which is the same that is used
in most movie theaters, DVD players and home entertainment
systems!
No More Ghost Images
Many times signal quality is not perfect when watching
regular NTSC television, which gives you what are called 'ghost
images'. A ghost image is when you see two of the same person
next to each other, as if there is a ghost of that person next
to himself.
With a digital signal you will always get a perfect image as
long as the TV is receiving a quality signal. This means no more
fuzz, no more snow and no more ghosts. Television the way it was
meant to be watched!
Progressive Scanning
Regular NTSC signals are shown as interlaced signals. This
means every other horizontal line of the monitor is displayed in
one frame, and the other half of the horizontal lines are drawn
in the next frame of the picture. This works because it happens
so fast that the eye is deceived into believing that only one
picture is being shown. Below this is shown in slower motion and
on an image that is not moving for explanation purposes.
Progressive scanning, on the other hand, displays the entire
picture in one frame. This provides a sharper picture to the eye
and looks much better than an interlaced image of the same
resolution. With DTV there are two progressive formats for
broadcasters to choose from: 480p and 720p. A 480p image is
without question much sharper than a regular, NTSC broadcast,
although it is only considered a DTV signal and not a true High
Definition signal. 720p has 720 horizontal scan lines and is
considered to be true HDTV. 720p can many times rival a 1080i
picture, which is 1080 horizontal scan lines displayed as an
interlaced image. This is because of the sharper, and more
accurate picture 720p displays, even though 1080i has many more
scan lines and a much higher resolution.
Multicasting
Multicasting is when a broadcaster sends multiple signals out
over the same channel. Usually when multicasting, the quality of
the broadcast is less than that of HDTV, but it is almost always
better than regular NTSC television.
The benefit of multicasting is that a television station can
air four or more signals at the same time and give you the
choice of what you want to watch. There have been reports of
stations multicasting a HDTV signal and an EDTV signal without
much loss in the High Definition Signal, however this is usually
not the case. |
|
|
|
HDTV Reception
Methods:
The big question everybody asks is: "What channels can I receive in digital or
high definition format in my local area?" The answer is not quite as simple...
There are three ways of getting HDTV content, and all three ways will get you
different channels and different HDTV resolutions. These options are listed
below:
HDTV over Satellite
 |
|
A satellite company such as DirecTV or Dish Network will allow you to get
high definition programming from them. If you go this route, you will have to
pay a little extra to receive local channels if you wish to watch your local
network broadcasts. Even if your local networks are broadcasting in High
Definition, you will only get standard definition signals as DTV and HDTV take
up too much bandwidth. Your HDTV channels will most likely include an east or
west cost feed of CBS, HBO, Showtime, Pay Per View, HD Net and so forth. Look at
the corresponding pages on this site to see which high definition channels each
satellite company provides. If you decide to get HDTV programming from a
satellite company you will have to:
| Get a subscription from the specific satellite company that includes HDTV
programming. |
| Buy a satellite dish that is capable of receiving HDTV signals from the
satellite company you wish to receive high definition broadcasts from. |
| Buy a
Set-Top-Box that is capable of decoding High Definition channels and is
compatible with the specific satellite provider you choose. |
| Buy a
High Definition TV to view the signals. |
| |
HDTV through Local Cable Companies
Cable companies are just starting to provide HDTV broadcasts and almost all
local cable companies in Louisiana offer HDTV services. If you decide to
do this you will have to:
| Get a subscription from your local cable provider who supports HDTV .
|
| Buy or rent a
Set-Top-Box that is capable of decoding High Definition channels and is
compatible with the specific cable company you choose. |
| Buy a
High Definition Television to view the signals. |
Many people are confusing Digital Cable with HDTV and DTV. These are two
completely different things. If you get Digital Cable, this usually does not
mean you are already set up to receive HDTV signals. (Though it is possible...)
HDTV reception Over The Air
OTA stands for Over the Air and is when you set up an antenna to get
broadcasts from a local tower. If you get signals OTA you will not have to pay a
subscription to a cable or satellite company and the programming is completely
free. This does, however, limit you to only a few channels and is why most
people receiving HDTV programming over the air also get programming from a cable
company or satellite company as well. If you decide to do this you will have to:
| Buy an antenna that is satisfactory for your location compared to the
broadcast towers near you. To find out what type of antenna you might need,
visit
AntennaWeb.Org |
| Buy a
Set-Top-Box that is capable of receiving and decoding High Definition
channels over the air. |
| Buy a
High Definition TV to view the signals. |
Of course, you can choose to get HDTV from multiple sources at the same time.
Many people get both Satellite and OTA signals since OTA does not cost anything
except the initial setup! Plus, if you are getting HDTV over satellite that may
mean you already have a STB that can decode OTA signals too.
COX COMMUNICATIONS for New Orleans and
Jefferson now offer these
High Definition channels: HBO, SHOWTIME, Discovery Channel,
ESPN, MTV, In-Demand, and most local channels.
Click this link to see exactly which type of antenna you
will need to pick up these digital signals in your area.
HDTV or HDTV-ready?
Once you've determined which DTV signals are available to you, it's time to
think about which type of digital TV makes the most sense. There are two basic
paths to HDTV viewing.
| An HDTV (sometimes called an "integrated HDTV") combines
an HD-capable display and an HDTV tuner in one package. The tuner can usually
receive both digital and analog over-the-air broadcasts. The FCC (Federal
Communications Commission) mandated that as of July 1, 2006, all TVs with
screens 25" and larger must include an over-the-air digital tuner, and by
march 1, 2007, all TVs 13" and larger must include a digital tuner. You'll
find that nearly all HDTV sets use the widescreen 16:9
aspect ratio. |
| An HDTV-ready TV (also called an "HDTV monitor") has the
high-scan-rate display, but must be connected to a separate HDTV tuner to
receive digital broadcasts. Most HDTV-ready TVs include an NTSC tuner for
viewing regular analog programs. HDTV-ready TVs can have either the
conventional 4:3 aspect ratio or the widescreen 16:9 ratio. |
Both HDTV sets and HDTV-ready TVs are available in
flat-panel, big-screen (rear-projection),
and
tube designs. These high-resolution screens give images more impact. And
because the screen's pixels and horizontal lines are less noticeable than on
conventional TVs, you'll probably find that you can sit closer than with a
conventional TV. Therefore, you may want to go with a larger screen than if you
were shopping for an analog TV.
If you're lucky enough to live in an area where most or all of the TV
programming you care about is already available via over-the-air digital
broadcasts, an integrated HDTV is probably a wise choice. But if digital
broadcasts are limited in your area, or if you subscribe to a satellite TV
service, you can buy an HDTV-ready TV now, then add a separate HDTV tuner later.
Although HDTV tuners (whether they're separate units or built into an HDTV)
are capable of receiving all 18 DTV formats, the typical HDTV screen
cannot display all of them. Building a TV display that could detect and
switch between so many resolutions would be extremely expensive.
Instead, most TV manufacturers build High-Definition TVs and HDTV-ready TVs
that display one or two formats, called the "native display" formats. The TV's
tuner can receive any of the 18 signal types. But those signals are converted
inside the tuner to one of the TV's native display formats. Conventional analog
video signals are typically "upconverted" by this same circuitry. Upconversion
works great with a high-quality source like DVD, and can significantly improve
the look of decent signals from antenna, cable, or satellite. But it can't work
miracles for snowy analog antenna reception or a noisy cable picture.
Because 1080i is the most popular high-definition format for over-the-air and
satellite HDTV broadcasts, most CRT-based TVs use it as their High-Definition
native-display rate. The other common native rate for tube-based TVs is 480p
(for SDTV broadcasts and progressive-scan DVD). If you were to watch a 720p
High-Definition broadcast, the TV would typically convert the 720p signal to
either 1080i or 480p — although some HDTV-capable TVs cannot accept a 720p
signal. A 720p broadcast converted to 1080i still looks very sharp, but if you
are particularly interested in viewing 720p HDTV programs, you should try to
find a TV with a native display rate that is at least close to 720p.
"Fixed-pixel" TV designs, which include
plasma,
LCD,
DLP, and
LCoS, have a single native display rate, and all incoming signals must be
converted to match that rate. So, for example, a 46" DLP TV with a resolution of
1280 x 720 pixels (720p) uses a built-in "scaler" to convert every incoming
signal — from regular 480i all the way up to 1080i HDTV — to 720p.
The digital TV transition has finally entered the home
stretch
Until the transition to digital television is complete, TV stations will
continue broadcasting on their analog channels while phasing in digital
broadcasts on a separate DTV channel. Several years ago, the FCC established a
timetable for terrestrial (over-the-air) broadcasters to convert to DTV. While
many stations missed earlier deadlines, most commercial and public TV stations
are currently broadcasting digitally at least part of the time.
Earlier deadlines weren't strictly enforced, but everyone seems to be taking
the recently proposed 2009 analog shutoff date more seriously. A substantial
amount of money is involved — the analog bandwidth that has been occupied by TV
broadcasters will be auctioned off and is expected to generate billions of
dollars for the government. You should be aware of the following dates:
| July 1, 2006: As part of the FCC's "tuner mandate," all TV sets
with screens measuring 25" or larger must include an over-the-air digital
tuner. Note: this rule doesn't apply
to "monitor" displays which lack any type of built-in tuner. |
| December 31, 2006: This was the FCC's original target "analog
shut-off date" when all TV stations would have been required to turn off their
analog signals. However, the proposal included a loophole that allowed the
deadline to be extended until most homes (85%) in an area were capable of
watching digital TV programs. This deadline is no longer in effect.
|
| March 1, 2007: The final requirement of the tuner mandate calls for
all TVs with screens measuring 13" or larger to include an over-the-air
digital tuner. Again, this won't apply to monitor displays. |
| February 17, 2009: In legislation passed in early Feb. 2006, the
U.S. Congress chose this date for the "analog shut-off," when all TV stations
would be required to turn off their analog signals. The measure is part of the
budget bill, which still must be signed by President Bush, but it seems safe
to predict that over-the-air analog TV signals will cease sometime in early
2009. |
If 2009 rolls around and you still don't own a digital TV, don't worry — you
won't be left staring at a dark screen. Any TV connected to a cable or satellite
set-top box should continue to work just fine. Plus, all versions of the analog
shutoff legislation proposed so far have included significant funds — at least a
billion dollars or so — earmarked for helping owners of analog TVs purchase
inexpensive converter boxes that would allow them to view over-the-air digital
broadcasts on their old TVs.
As you probably already know, America's switch from
analog to digital TV broadcasting is nearing
completion. A government mandate requires that all
full-power TV stations stop broadcasting analog
signals and switch to 100% digital broadcasting by
February 17, 2009. Compared to analog, digital
broadcasts provide a sharper picture and more
programming options — but you need the right
equipment to watch them.
Who is affected?
The digital transition will primarily affect the
15-20 million TV viewers who rely on local
over-the-air broadcasts received via antenna. After
Feb. 17, 2009, all old-fashioned TVs (those with an
analog-only tuner) will need to be connected to a
digital-to-analog converter box, or replaced by a
new TV with a built-in digital tuner. Roughly 85% of
TV-viewing households subscribe to cable or
satellite TV, and if that's your situation, you
shouldn't experience any interruption in service. If
necessary, your TV service provider will supply a
set-top box that will work with your TV.
How will this digital converter box work?
Electronics makers have spent the last two
years designing simple, low-cost converter boxes
that connect between your antenna (either outdoor or
indoor) and your TV. You'll need a converter box for
each TV. The box will provide a crisp, ghost-free
picture — approximately DVD quality but not
high-definition. These converter boxes are expected
to sell for $40 - $70, and you'll be able to buy
them at many consumer electronics stores starting in
February or March, 2008. You can reduce the cost
significantly by taking advantage of the
government's coupon program.
How to sign up for the government's $40
converter box coupons
The government already has a
website set up that lets you apply for up to two
$40 coupons per household to reduce the cost of the
transition to digital TV. You can also apply by
phone by calling 1-888-DTV-2009. You can apply for
these coupons anytime between now and March 31,
2009. The coupons expire after 90 days.
Stay tuned for more news on High Definition
Television...
Top of page
Can I incorporate your
services into my existing home?
Yes, depending on the age, style, and size of your home.
If you would like to set up a free in-home consultation, please visit our
contact us page.
Top of page
What are the
different Surround Sound formats (Dolby Digital, DTS, THX, etc.)?
Because most people, from surround sound novices to
A/V experts, find surround sound formats a little
confusing, we've provided quick descriptions below
of many common formats. You can also take a look at
our surround formats chart for an even faster
summary.
Before we get started, there are a few general
terms and concepts you should know.
5.1: 5.1 surround sound is
the most common format. It includes a total of
six channels — five full-bandwidth channels with
3-20,000 Hz frequency range for front left and
right, center, and left and right surrounds,
plus one "low frequency effects" (LFE) subwoofer
channel for frequencies from 3-120 Hz.
Discrete: Some channels are
considered "discrete" — that means that the
sound information contained in each of the
available channels is distinct and independent
from the others.
Matrixed: Other channels are
considered "matrixed" — that means that the
sound information in those channels is
extrapolated from information in other channels.
Though you'll notice more precise surround
effects from discrete channels, you can still
expect engaging sound from matrixed channels.
Lossless: Most surround
formats are compressed so that they're small
enough to be stored or transmitted — on a DVD,
for example, or in a satellite TV broadcast. But
now, some higher-capacity HD DVDs and Blu-ray
Discs can hold lossless, uncompressed surround
soundtracks, for more detailed audio.
A very good option: 5.1-channel surround
As we stated above, 5.1-channel surround sound is
the most common home theater configuration today.
And there are two main formats that deliver surround
sound for 5.1-channel systems.
Dolby Digital
Dolby® Digital quickly established itself as
a reigning surround format, largely thanks to
DVDs. These days, it's also used in video games
and HDTV programming. Although Dolby Digital,
strictly speaking, is simply a method of
encoding audio information digitally, the term
is often used to refer to 5.1-channel audio —
its most popular form. In discussing Dolby
Digital surround sound, we'll be focusing on
this multichannel format.
Unlike earlier forms of surround sound, Dolby
Digital 5.1-channel audio is a "discrete"
multichannel surround sound system. With six
discrete channels, sounds can be placed very
precisely, for improved dialogue clarity,
imaging, spaciousness, and realism. You also get
a dedicated subwoofer channel, for plenty of
deep bass.
How Dolby Digital works
DTS: Another good 5.1 surround option
Like Dolby Digital, DTS® provides 5.1
channels of digital audio. However, DTS uses
less compression than Dolby Digital. As a
result, some say that the sound produced by DTS
is slightly more accurate than the sound
produced by Dolby Digital. While most
audio/video receivers will have both Dolby
Digital and DTS, fewer DVDs and video games are
encoded with DTS, compared to the number encoded
with Dolby Digital.
Even better: 6.1-channel surround
Although 5.1-channel is still the most popular
surround format, and many of the home theater
systems being sold today are 5.1-channel systems,
6.1-channel audio is also a common option. A
6.1-channel system delivers an even more enveloping
surround effect than a 5.1-channel system. Let's
take a look at the main options.
DTS-ES: Discrete 6.1 surround
DTS-ES™ uses existing digital multichannel
technology to deliver the "5.1" channels of
regular DTS, plus it adds a discrete,
full-bandwidth back surround channel. Although
more movies are encoded for Dolby Digital EX
(see below) than for DTS-ES, there are still
plenty. And today's 6.1-channel receivers are
likely to have both formats.
Matrixed 6.1 surround with Dolby Digital EX
and THX Surround EX
Dolby Labs and THX collaborated to come up
with their own solution to 6.1-channel surround
sound, too. They do essentially the same thing,
both adding a matrixed back surround channel for
use in a 6.1-channel speaker system, in order to
provide an even more complete 360° soundstage.
(If you have a 7.1 surround system, the same
audio information will go to both of your back
surround speakers.)
Many DVDs are encoded for Dolby Digital EX,
and have that extra channel of surround
information ready to go. Also, if you're playing
a regular Dolby Digital 5.1-channel DVD, a Dolby
Digital EX or THX Surround EX™ decoder will
simulate 6.1-channel surround by processing the
audio information in the discrete surround
channels and sending the matrixed audio info to
your back surround speaker(s) as well.
How DTS-ES 6.1 works
The latest sound formats: Discrete 7.1-channel surround
In addition to HD video, today's high-def disc
formats can also support more detailed audio. Many
Blu-ray Disc™ and HD DVD players support 7.1 audio
formats, and some even offer high-quality, lossless
surround sound.
While your high-def disc player and receiver may
be able to decode these new surround sound formats,
it's important to note that not all discs you play
will take advantage of them. Be sure to check out
the details on the high-def discs you watch to see
which audio format they use. You'll also want to
connect your player to a compatible receiver using
your disc player's 7.1-analog audio outputs or a
compatible HDMI output (version 1.3).
Dolby TrueHD
This lossless format offers up to 7.1
discrete channels of lossless audio. Along with
adding two extra rear channels to the standard
Dolby Digital format, Dolby TrueHD discs are
encoded with more audio information per channel.
In fact, they provide sound with improved
directionality and more precise effects — it's
even closer to the experience of being in a
movie theater.
DTS-HD™ Master Audio
This lossless audio format is similar to
Dolby TrueHD. It features 7.1 discrete channels
of audio, and is used on some Blu-ray discs.
Like Dolby TrueHD, it also provides impressively
accurate sound.
Additional discrete 7.1-channel surround
formats
You may find that some Blu-ray and HD DVD
discs are also encoded with other discrete
7.1-channel surround formats. Dolby Laboratories
and DTS developed Dolby Digital Plus
and DTS-HD (High Resolution),
respectively. These formats deliver 7.1
independent channels of sound. They provide more
detailed surround effects than 5.1 Dolby Digital
and DTS, though they aren't lossless like Dolby
TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio. Receivers that
support lossless 7.1-channel formats will also
support Dolby Digital Plus and DTS-HD (High
Resolution).
More surround options: Dolby Pro Logic II and IIx and DTS Neo:6
If you use a stereo analog connection to your
receiver, or are connecting older equipment like a
VCR, your receiver may employ one of these types of
processing to decode the signal. Dolby Pro
Logic II includes two independent
full-bandwidth surround channels, three matrixed
surround channels, and a dedicated low-frequency
channel for your subwoofer. Many recent home theater
receivers also offer Pro Logic IIx
processing, which can turn the same sources into
even more enveloping 7.1-channel sound.
Receivers with Dolby Pro Logic II and IIx give
extra intensity to the thousands of VHS movies and
TV broadcasts recorded in either stereo or older
4-channel Dolby Surround. They also include special
modes tailored to turning stereo music into
realistic surround sound.
DTS Neo:6 is essentially
identical to Pro Logic II — it's simply the
processing DTS came up with to deliver 5.1 or 6.1
channels of sound from a two-channel stereo source.
And just like Pro Logic II, it delivers a convincing
surround sound experience.
| Surround format |
Number of channels |
Types of channels |
Type of media with which the format may be used |
| Dolby® Pro Logic® |
4 |
| 2 discrete, full-bandwidth channels (front left and
right)
|
| 1 matrixed, full-bandwidth channel (center)
|
| 1 matrixed, limited-bandwidth channel (surround left and
right) |
|
| stereo and Dolby Surround-encoded VHS movies and broadcast TV
programs
|
| can be downconverted from any Dolby Digital source |
|
| Dolby Pro Logic II |
5.1 |
| 2 discrete, full-bandwidth channels (front left and
right)
|
| 3 matrixed, full-bandwidth channels (center, surround
left and right)
|
| 1 subwoofer channel via Pro Logic II's bass management |
|
| stereo and Dolby Surround-encoded VHS movies and broadcast TV
programs
|
| stereo music
|
| some video games |
|
| Dolby Digital |
up to 5.1 |
| 5 discrete, full-bandwidth channels (front left and
right, center, surround left and right)
|
| 1 discrete LFE channel (subwoofer) |
|
| all DVDs
|
| some broadcast HDTV
|
| some satellite and cable TV
|
| some video games |
|
| DTS® |
5.1 |
| 5 discrete, full-bandwidth channels (front left and
right, center, surround left and right)
|
| 1 discrete LFE channel (subwoofer) |
|
| some DVDs are DTS-encoded
|
| some CDs are DTS-encoded |
|
| DTS Neo:6 |
up to 6.1 |
| 2 discrete, full-bandwidth channels (front left and
right)
|
| 3 or 4 matrixed, full-bandwidth channels (center,
surround left and right, and back surround)
|
| 1 subwoofer channel via DTS Neo:6's bass management |
|
| stereo VHS movies and broadcast TV programs
|
| stereo music
|
| some video games |
|
| Dolby Pro Logic IIx |
6.1 |
| 2 discrete, full-bandwidth channels (front left and
right)
|
| 4 matrixed, full-bandwidth channels (center, surround
left and right, and back surround)
|
| 1 subwoofer channel via Pro Logic IIx's bass management |
|
| stereo and Dolby Surround-encoded VHS movies and broadcast TV
programs
|
| stereo music
|
| some video games |
|
| Dolby Digital EX |
6.1 |
| 5 discrete, full-bandwidth channels (front left and
right, center, surround left and right)
|
| 1 matrixed, full-bandwidth channel (back surround)
|
| 1 discrete LFE channel (subwoofer) |
|
| some DVDs are Dolby Digital EX-encoded
|
| regular Dolby Digital 5.1 DVDs can also be used with a Dolby
Digital EX decoder |
|
| THX Surround EX™ |
6.1 |
| 5 discrete, full-bandwidth channels (front left and
right, center, surround left and right)
|
| 1 matrixed, full-bandwidth channel (back surround)
|
| 1 discrete LFE channel (subwoofer) |
|
| can decode any Dolby Digital or Dolby Digital EX source
|
| can be used to enhance Pro Logic, Pro Logic II, DTS, or DTS-ES
decoding
|
|
| DTS-ES™ |
6.1 |
| 6 discrete, full-bandwidth channels (front left and
right, center, surround left and right, and back surround)
|
| 1 discrete LFE channel (subwoofer) |
|
| some DVDs are DTS-ES-encoded
|
| regular DTS 5.1 DVDs can also be used with a DTS-ES decoder
|
|
| Dolby Digital Plus |
7.1 |
| 7 discrete, full-bandwidth channels (front left and
right, center, surround left and right, and back left and right
surround)
|
| 1 discrete LFE channel (subwoofer) |
|
| some Blu-ray discs™ and HD DVDs are encoded with Dolby Digital
Plus |
| can be downconverted for playback on a 5.1-channel system |
|
| Dolby TrueHD (lossless) |
7.1 |
| 7 discrete, full-bandwidth channels (front left and
right, center, surround left and right, and back left and right
surround)
|
| 1 discrete LFE channel (subwoofer) |
|
| some Blu-ray discs and HD DVDs are encoded with Dolby TrueHD
|
| can be downconverted for playback on a 5.1-channel system |
| as a lossless format, offers sound that's "bit-for-bit"
identical to the original recording for more detailed, accurate
surround sound
|
|
| DTS-HD™ |
7.1 |
| 7 discrete, full-bandwidth channels (front left and
right, center, surround left and right, and back left and right
surround)
|
| 1 discrete LFE channel (subwoofer) |
|
| some Blu-ray discs and HD DVDs are encoded with DTS-HD |
| can be downconverted for playback on a 5.1-channel system |
|
| DTS-HD Master Audio
(lossless) |
7.1 |
| 7 discrete, full-bandwidth channels (front left and
right, center, surround left and right, and back left and right
surround)
|
| 1 discrete LFE channel (subwoofer) |
|
| some Blu-ray discs and HD DVDs are encoded with DTS-HD Master
Audio |
| can be downconverted for playback on a 5.1-channel system |
| as a lossless format, offers sound that's "bit-for-bit"
identical to the original recording for more detailed, accurate
surround sound |
|
"My receiver has other surround formats, too"
Sometimes, manufacturers will put their own
special processing in a receiver, often called
Digital Signal Processing (DSP), in addition to the
formats described above. Many home theater receivers
use Digital Signal Processing to create soundfields
— simulated acoustic environments, like a concert
hall or stadium — and for precise steering of
multichannel soundtrack information. This feature
may go by different names, depending on the
manufacturer. Check your owner's manual for details
about your receiver's DSP modes.
Top of page
What are the different TV screen types (Plasma, CRT, LCD, Rear Projection) and
what's the difference?
Understanding TV Types
Quick tips
Picture quality
One thing absent from the chart above is a comparison of picture quality.
That's because picture quality is determined by construction quality and
internal processing as much as it is by TV type. For example, people
generally agree that top tube TVs have the best picture quality; yet it's
not unusual to compare a specific tube TV to a plasma and find that the
plasma is the winner. Plus, people often have different ideas about what
looks "best." And finally, various space and budgetary constraints may
affect how much importance you place on small differences in picture
quality. The bottom line? To get the best possible picture quality, look for
TVs from reliable brands, and don't give up better engineering in order to
get a bargain basement price.
Viewing angle
The wider the viewing angle, the better the picture will look to people
sitting to the extreme left or right of the TV. If you regularly cram a host
of friends and family into your living room for event viewing, you want the
widest viewing angle possible. (Of course, specs aren't everything; for
example, although LCD TVs have a wider viewing angle on paper, our A/V
experts have repeatedly confirmed that plasmas actually look better when
viewed at extreme angles.)
Black level and contrast
Good black levels deliver rich shadows and excellent shadow detail. (Tube
TVs usually have superior black levels, while digital displays like plasma,
LCD, and DLP produce a black that is often more of a dark gray.) Good
contrast gives the picture more punch and 3-D impact.
Screen burn-in
Plasma TVs are great for watching TV shows and DVD movies. However, if
you're a devotee of sports or news channels, or you play a lot of video
games, it's safest to steer clear of plasma. That's because the ticker tape,
channel logo or game controls that remain stationary on screen can "burn"
into a plasma TV screen's phosphor coating. You don't want to see a ghostly
channel logo floating in the bottom right corner of every movie you watch.
"Rainbows"
Although most people can't see it, a few have observed something called "the
rainbow effect" when watching DLP TVs (particularly older DLP sets). This
momentary effect is due to the unique way a DLP TV re-creates the image on
screen. If you find you're one of the very small number who are bothered by
this effect, consider an LCD or LCoS big-screen instead of DLP.
Front-projection TVs
Although they are not TVs in the most obvious sense (they don't have a
built-in screen or any kind of tuner, for example),
front projectors are an increasingly popular way to experience
big-screen viewing in your home theater. Most often, these projectors use
the same DLP or LCD technology discussed above. Important note: Be sure to
get a projector designed for home theater, rather than the kind built for
business presentations; there are surprising differences in performance.
Which type is right for you?
Plasma TVs have been around a little longer than LCD TVs, and their
technology is a little further along. Plasma screens use a phosphor coating
like tube TVs, so they have the natural color we're used to with tube
models. Plasmas have better contrast and black level performance than LCDs,
and offer slightly wider viewing angles. People often describe plasma's
picture quality as richer or more "cinematic," so it's a great choice for a
home theater, or your main TV.
A plasma TV might be for you if:
| You want really rich, warm colors and deep blacks. |
| You'll be sitting off-axis when you watch TV or movies. |
| You don't watch a lot of TV shows or play lots of video games with
static images on the screen for more than a few hours at a time. |
| Your viewing room doesn't have a lot of ambient light, or you can
easily reduce the light by closing the blinds, for example. |
If you're looking at screen sizes under 40", LCD is your only flat-panel
choice. LCD looks great in a kitchen or any other room with bright lighting.
LCD displays are better at resisting glare from sunlight or room lights, and
they're very bright (brighter even than plasmas). LCD is also one of the
most rugged display types. Its total immunity to screen burn-in makes LCD an
ideal choice if your viewing includes frequent computer or video game use.
And if you leave your TV on for hours at a time tuned to a news or sports
channel with a scrolling "ticker," LCD would be a safer TV choice.
A flat-panel LCD TV might be for
you if:
| You watch a lot of TV shows or play lots of video games with static
images on the screen for extended periods of time, multiple days a week. |
| Your TV room is relatively bright, or you do a lot of daytime
viewing. |
| There are many more 1080p LCD models than plasma — that's the
highest resolution currently available, so you'll see a very sharp,
detailed picture. |
| LCD TVs are usually more energy efficient than plasma models of the
same size. |
Click
this link
to download a document containing professional industry comparisons, pros
and cons, and myths of Plasma vs. LCD televisions.
As you will see, plasma televisions are the winner every
time!
Whats it all
about...
Flat-panel TVs: Plasma and LCD
TVs are changing in major
ways, both inside and out, and the most exciting
trend is the shift to ultra-thin, lightweight
flat-panel TVs. With many models measuring 4
inches deep or less, the dream of
hang-on-the-wall TVs is finally a reality. By
completely redefining the way we think about
TVs, flat-panel technology is probably the most
revolutionary innovation in the history of TV —
even more significant than the switch from black
and white to color, or from analog signals to
digital HDTV.
Flat-panel TVs create bright, crisp images
without using the traditional CRT (cathode-ray
tube) or "picture tube." These super-slim TVs
use either plasma or LCD (Liquid Crystal
Display) panels. In the past few years, LCD and
plasma technologies have improved dramatically
in picture resolution, brightness, and contrast
ratio. Now even finicky videophiles are
replacing their large, heavy CRT-based TVs with
décor-friendly plasma or LCD panels. And the
best news is that flat-panel screens are getting
bigger, better, and cheaper!
Scan lines are out,
pixels are in!
The CRT technology at the heart
of typical tube-type direct-view and
rear-projection TVs has been around for over 100
years. After decades of development and
fine-tuning, tube TVs deliver excellent picture
quality at relatively affordable prices — today
a 30" widescreen tube TV costs much less than
the same size plasma or LCD screen. Another CRT
advantage is multiple resolutions. The electron
gun can change its scanning rate, so, for
example, an HDTV-ready TV can scan at one rate
for high-definition signals (like 1080i), and
another for progressive-scan DVD (480p).
Although their picture and price are appealing,
CRT-based TVs have cabinets that are unavoidably
heavy and deep. The weight is due to the picture
tube — a sealed glass vacuum tube (and the
popular flat-glass picture tubes like those in
Sony's Wega TVs are especially heavy). The depth
is due to the scanning electron gun that creates
images by firing a beam of electrons in
horizontal passes across the phosphor dot-coated
front of the tube. (Phosphors emit red, green or
blue light when hit by electrons.) Another CRT
disadvantage is susceptibility to distortion
caused by a nearby magnet, like the large
magnets in non-video-shielded loudspeakers.
The alternative to a conventional CRT-based TV
is a space-efficient flat-panel TV based on
plasma or LCD technology. Flat-panel screen
technology is fundamentally different
from traditional CRT technology. Neither LCD nor
plasma TVs uses an electron gun or picture tube,
yet they create sharp, bright images. In fact,
plasma and LCD screens offer brightness and wide
viewing angles that are comparable to
direct-view CRT TVs (their viewing angles are
much wider than those for "big-screen"
rear-projection CRT models).
CRT images are typically slightly out of
focus at the screen's edges because the
electron gun's beam is at a greater angle. A
flat-panel TV's perfectly flat grid of
pixels can produce images that are very
accurate and consistent, from corner to
corner. |
Flat-panel TVs create images by using a
perfectly flat, fixed grid of square or
rectangular pixels (short for "picture
elements"). You may hear plasma and LCD TVs
referred to as "fixed-pixel" displays.
Flat-panel TVs only have a single resolution,
which is called the "native resolution" of the
panel. This number is a pixel count: generally
given as the number of horizontal pixels by the
number of vertical pixels, such as 640 x 480 or
1024 x 768. The various video signals we watch
(480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i) are converted to match
the panel's native resolution by a "scaler"
that's either built in or a separate component.
Flat-panel TVs can create images that are
extremely accurate because the screen's light
and color information are controlled digitally
at the pixel level! In fact, every pixel in a
flat-panel screen actually has three sub-pixels:
one each for red, green and blue. Each
individual sub-pixel is switched on and off by
its own electrode. By carefully controlling the
voltage applied, the intensity of each sub-pixel
can range over 256 shades. Combining the
sub-pixels produces a possible palette of over
16.7 million colors (256 shades of red x 256
shades of green x 256 shades of blue) for each
pixel!
This incredible level of precision, along with a
totally flat screen, allows flat-panel TVs to
have perfect image focus and geometry from top
to bottom, side to side, and corner to corner.
CRT images are typically slightly out of focus
at the edges because the electron gun's beam is
at a greater angle. And rear-projection TVs
sometimes can have convergence problems
where the red, green, and blue CRTs become
misaligned so that the picture isn't as sharp as
it should be.
One other advantage — especially for home
theater fans — is that flat-panel TVs aren't
affected by the magnets of nearby unshielded
speakers. You can't have picture tube distortion
if there is no "tube"!
Now that you know the difference between
flat-panel TVs and CRT TVs, we'll look at the
main differences between plasma TVs and LCD TVs.
How a plasma TV
panel works
A plasma TV is sometimes called
an "emissive" display — the panel is actually
self-lighting. The display consists of two
transparent glass panels with a thin layer of
pixels sandwiched in between. Each pixel is
composed of three gas-filled cells or sub-pixels
(one each for red, green and blue). A grid of
tiny electrodes applies an electric current to
the individual cells, causing the gas (a mix of
neon and xenon) in the cells to ionize. This
ionized gas (plasma) emits high-frequency UV
rays, which stimulate the cells' phosphors,
causing them to glow the desired color.
Each individual plasma cell is switched on
and off by its own electrode. An
HDTV-capable plasma TV can have up to 3
million of these cells! |
Because a plasma panel is illuminated at the
sub-pixel level, images are extremely accurate,
and the panel's light output is both high and
consistent across the entire screen area. Plasma
TVs also provide very wide horizontal and
vertical viewing angles, especially when
compared to conventional rear-projection TVs.
Picture quality looks sharp and bright from
virtually anywhere in the room. Because plasma
TV screens do use a phosphor coating (like
direct-view and projection CRT TVs), the
potential for image burn-in exists, so it's
important to follow the manufacturer's
recommendations on day-to-day use.
Until recently, all flat-panel TVs were
progressive displays — at any given moment
all of the pixels are illuminated. But plasma
TVs based on innovative AliS technology
(Alternate Lighting of Surfaces) are proving
that a non-progressive picture can look
outstanding. Typical plasma panels have a strip
of electrodes for each horizontal row of plasma
cells, while ALiS panels share an electrode
strip between two rows of cells. At any given
instant only half the panel's pixels are turned
on. It's somewhat similar to interlaced-scanning
on a CRT-based TV — in fact, ALiS technology was
developed as a way to make a simpler, lower-cost
plasma panel capable of displaying interlaced
HDTV signals (1080i).
Two HDTV-capable plasma panel designs. The
ALiS panel (left) is a simpler design that
uses a "trough" structure instead of the
conventional "cell" structure, while also
streamlining the drive electronics (fewer
electrodes). Bottom line: Both panel designs
can deliver outstanding picture quality!
|
Because there is less screen "real estate" taken
up by electrode strips, there's more illuminated
area, and as a result, ALiS panels provide a
seamlessly clear, bright image. Other ALiS
benefits include high-efficiency — they require
only half the voltage of conventional plasma
drive systems — and extended panel life.
How an LCD TV panel
works
An LCD TV is sometimes referred
to as a "transmissive" display — light isn't
created by the liquid crystals themselves; a
light source (bulb) behind the panel shines
light through the display. A white diffusion
panel behind the LCD redirects and scatters the
light evenly to ensure a uniform image.
The display consists of two polarizing
transparent panels and a liquid crystal solution
sandwiched in between. The screen's front layer
of glass is etched on the inside surface in a
grid pattern to form a template for the layer of
liquid crystals. Liquid crystals are rod-shaped
molecules that bend light in response to an
electric current — the crystals align so that
light cannot pass through them. Each crystal
acts like a shutter, either allowing light to
pass through or blocking the light. The pattern
of transparent and dark crystals forms the
image. It's the same display technology behind
your digital watch but way more sophisticated.
The multi-layered structure of an
active-matrix LCD panel. Because they use
red, green and blue color filters in place
of phosphor dots, LCD panels are completely
immune to image burn-in. |
LCD TVs use the most advanced type of LCD, known
as an "active-matrix" LCD. This design is based
on thin film transistors (TFT) — basically, tiny
switching transistors and capacitors that are
arranged in a matrix on a glass substrate. Their
job is to rapidly switch the LCD's pixels on and
off. In a color TV's LCD, each color pixel is
created by three sub-pixels with red, green and
blue color filters.
One of the biggest challenges for LCD TV
manufacturers has been speeding up the "pixel
response" time (how fast an individual pixel's
color can change without blurring) to ensure
that fast-moving objects don't exhibit "motion
lag" or ghosting. It's especially critical for
larger-screen LCD TVs where much of the viewing
will be DVD movies and/or HDTV.
An important difference between plasma and LCD
technology is that an LCD screen doesn't have a
coating of phosphor dots (colors are created
through the use of filters). That means you'll
never have to worry about image burn-in, which
is great news, especially for anyone planning to
connect a PC or video game system. LCD TVs are
extremely energy-efficient, typically consuming
60% less power than comparably-sized tube-type
direct-view TVs!
COMMON PLASMA TV QUESTIONS:
1. What's the difference
between plasma and LCD?
Plasma is a phosphor-based emissive
technology somewhat like a CRT. LCD is a
chip-based technology which uses a bright
backlight to provide a picture. Each
technology has benefits for certain uses.
Plasmas can be considered a next generation
replacement for CRTs in your living room or
home theater. They have large screens, wide
viewing angles (so that you can see the same
picture even when you aren't directly in
front of the screen), produce sharp fast
moving images, have the highest contrast,
and the deepest black level of all flat
panel technologies today.
LCDs have the best performance in bright
viewing conditions, such as a kitchen or
under direct sunlight. LCDs usually have
smaller screens and are well suited to
personal viewing situations.
The easy way to remember is: If you want a
flat-panel TV under 37", choose LCD. If you
want a flat-panel TV 37" and above, choose
plasma.
2. Will my plasma "fade out" in only a
couple of years?
All displays (TVs, computer monitors, LCD,
plasma) lose brightness over time. Believe
it or not, that old tube TV you have in the
den isn't as bright as it was when you
bought it 10 years ago. Panasonic plasmas
have a projected life of 100,000 hours before
they're only half as bright as when they
were new. That's 39+ years at 7 hours a day
(which is the average daily viewing time per
U.S. household).
3. Do I ever have to "refill" my plasma?
Absolutely not. Plasmas never have to be
"refilled" or "recharged" in any way.
4. Is it true that logos, graphics and
other images will "burn in" and permanently
damage my plasma?
There is a very slight risk of image retention on
any phosphor based technology (like CRTs or
plasma). Improvements in panel service life
to over 100,000 hours have minimized the risk
of uneven aging and image retention. In
addition, screen savers, pixel shifting, and
brightness level adjustments can
dramatically reduce any chance of burn-in.
The rule of thumb: if you don't worry about
your CRT, you don't have to worry about a
plasma.
5. What is contrast ratio? Why is it
important?
Contrast ratio indicates the difference
between the lightest white against the
darkest black. The general rule of thumb is
the higher the contrast ratio, the better
the picture. Simply put, a high contrast
ratio will ensure rich blacks, bright
whites, and vivid, life-like colors.
Panasonic HD plasmas feature an amazing
contrast ratio of up to 3000:1 - for
unparalleled clarity and realism. Our
enhanced definition plasmas feature an
industry leading contrast ratio of up to
4000:1.
6. Do I have to watch a plasma in a pitch
black room?
No. Plasmas are bright and sharp in almost
all lighting conditions, although, like a
CRT, the picture will "wash out"
slightly in direct
sunlight. However, Panasonic plasmas feature
advanced anti-glare screen filters to reduce
the reflection of external light. Moreover,
one of the advantages of plasma is the
ability to create deep rich "black levels."
This benefit is especially visible in a
darkened room.
7. Do I have to sit directly in front of
a plasma?
No. One of the key advantages over other
flat panel or rear projection technologies
is that plasma provides the same image
quality from anywhere in the room. Above,
below, or side to side, the picture is
virtually unchanged. Other technologies can
either darken, wash out, or change color
when viewed off direct axis -- an important
consideration when you invite guests to your
next Super Bowl party.
8. What size plasma should I buy?
Well, you should pick a size that best
matches your optimum viewing distance -
which is roughly equal to the screen size
(measured diagonally in inches) multiplied
by 2 1/2.
So, here are some quick guidelines:
|
Viewing distance |
 |
Recommended plasma
size |
|
7 to 9 feet |
|
37" diagonal |
|
8 to 10 feet |
|
42" diagonal |
|
10 to 13 feet |
|
50" diagonal |
|
12 to 16 feet |
|
65" diagonal |
9. What do I need to do to get HD
programming on a plasma?
If you're like most people, and already have
cable or satellite TV, the easiest thing to
do is call your cable or satellite company.
They'll hook you up with everything you need
to get eye-popping HD programming.
Panasonic consumer plasma TVs also have
built-in HDTV tuners. So, if you live close
to a TV station broadcasting HDTV, you might
be able to receive free over-the-air HDTV
broadcasts with an antenna.
Also, many Panasonic plasma models have a
built-in CableCARD slot. A CableCARD (read
more below) is a small card you can get from
your cable provider that allows you to
receive standard definition and high
definition digital broadcasts without a
bulky set-top box. Please check with your
local cable company for details on pricing
and availability.
10. Are plasmas environmentally friendly?
Yes. Plasmas are quiet, power efficient, and
Energy Star compliant. In fact, most plasmas
use approximately the same power per square
inch of picture as your CRT.
Some common misconceptions-
CLEARED UP!
Geoffrey Morrison,
August, 2005- Home Theater Magazine
It's
(Almost) All in the Black Level
Of all of the video Face Offs we've done
over the last few years, the winners had one
thing in common: black level. They either
had the best black level or were tied with
another display for the best black level.
So, in a Face Off between an LCD and a
plasma, it's pretty safe to say that the
plasma would win. Even the LCD panels with
the deepest black levels are still
noticeably higher than the black levels that
plasmas can produce. So, if that's what
you're looking for, look no further. Rarely,
though, is black level the whole story.
What and Where
The most important question you have to ask
yourself before you start looking for a
display is how you're going to use it.
How you use your display is crucial to which
flat-panel technology you should consider.
For
example, say you're looking to replace the
TV in your family room with something sexy
and flat. A poster of the cast of Lost
is probably out, so you have your eyes set
on a flat panel. Most family rooms are
pretty brightly lit, either by fashionable
lighting from your local Ikea or by big
widows and doors. If this is the case, and
you intend to watch TV during the day,
plasma isn't the best choice. There are
several reasons for this, the first being
reflections. The front of a plasma is glass.
. .reflective, shiny glass. (LCD panels tend
to be less reflective due to their
polarizing nature.) In a room with a lot of
ambient light, the image on a plasma is
harder to see. To counter this, you tend to
turn the contrast all the way up.
This leads
to the other big reason that plasma isn't
the best choice for a room with lots of
ambient light. Plasmas have phosphors, which
glow so that you can see a picture. The
adage "twice as bright, half as long" comes
into play here. For the best longevity of a
plasma, you don't want to run it full-bore
all the time. Partial-bore will be just
fine. Turning the contrast all the way up is
also a great way to invite burn-in. As you
probably know, burn-in happens when a
phosphor doesn't like getting turned off and
stays partially lit for a time after it was
instructed to go out. On the screen, this
appears as a ghost of whatever image was on
the screen before. Plasmas are getting much
better at preventing burn-in (either by
using different phosphors, different gas, or
some electronic gadgetry). If you turn your
contrast control down, though, this will
help even more.
Or, say
you have a dedicated home theater room. When
you watch something in there, it's usually
dark. In that case, an LCD isn't a good
choice. LCDs are bright. Generally, they're
brighter than plasmas. Some LCD panels have
adjustable backlights that let you vary the
light output, but not all do. Regardless,
they are capable of tremendous, blinding
light. In a dark room, a really bright
display can be very fatiguing. Often, if the
LCD doesn't have an adjustable backlight,
adjusting the contrast control won't make
the display very dark. Worse, turning down
the brightness control further (assuming you
have it set correctly) also won't make the
display any darker. So reducing the contrast
control just reduces your contrast ratio.
Besides the fatigue, a high black level is
far more noticeable in a dark room than in a
well-lit one.
So,
generally speaking, if you watch TV more at
night or in a dark room, plasma is a better
choice. If you watch a lot of TV during the
day, then LCD is the better choice.
Lies, Lies, Lies
In an attempt to sway more buyers to the
technology that they manufacture, each side
of the flat-panel war has put a lot of
misinformation out there. Add in the lack of
training and knowledge on the sales side,
and this makes for a lot of deception (both
intentional and unintentional, which is just
as bad). So let's see if we can straighten
out some of these misconceptions.
Burn-In
Like I mentioned above, burn-in occurs when
a plasma phosphor continues to glow after it
has been told not to. With normal viewing,
and if you don't turn the contrast control
all the way up, it's doubtful that burn-in
will be a problem. Also, at least one
manufacturer has found that burn-in is
significantly less likely to occur after 100
or so hours of usage. LCDs don't burn in.
They can exhibit something called
persistence, where pixels get "stuck." This
may look similar to burn-in, but it's
reversible and not common.
Life Span
This is one that each side likes to throw at
the other. A plasma display is often rated
with a half-life—the time until it's half as
bright as it was when it was new. Half-life
is typically about 100,000 hours. Your plasma
will still be perfectly watchable after this
time; it just won't be as bright. This is a
gradual process, so gradual that you
probably won't even notice it's happening. LCDs, on the other hand, have a life span of
about 60,000 hours, after which you will
need to replace the backlight. This is not
like changing a light bulb, and you can't do
it yourself. Even if you think you'd do this
after 60,000 hours, it's doubtful that it
would be cost-effective. Say you average six
hours of TV watching a day, every day. That
means you won't reach 60,000 hours for about
27 years. Think of the TV you had 27 years
ago. I'd bet money that, in five years,
whatever you buy now will be half as
expensive and twice as good. Never mind in
10 years. In other words, either type of
flat-panel display should last just fine.
Viewing Angle
LCD manufacturers like to claim wide
viewing-angle numbers, most of which are
false. While you can certainly view an LCD
from the claimed angles, it won't look as
good as it does when you are right in front
of the screen. The contrast ratio goes down,
the black level goes up (and often changes
color), and colors desaturate. The severity
of this effect varies with make and model,
although it has gotten a lot better over the
years. If you have a wide couch or seats off
to an angle (any angle, including up and
down), check in a store to see if this is
going to be a problem for you. Plasma
televisions have an exceptional off angle
view.
Power Consumption
This is a tough one. LCDs have a steady
backlight, which draws the same amount of
power regardless of what's on the screen.
The liquid crystals require very little
power. Plasma power consumption varies
depending on what's on the screen. So, with
a dark movie, a plasma could draw less power
than an LCD, whereas, on a football game, it
would probably draw more. Also, if you turn
down the contrast control (yes, that again),
a plasma will draw less power, although it
still may draw more than an LCD. If an LCD
has an adjustable backlight, turning that
down should also help. If power consumption
is a concern for you, again, figure out what
you'll be using the display for.
How Are You Going to. . . Never Mind
Hopefully, this has cleared up some of the
misinformation that's out there. Not to
sound like a broken record (record. .
.record. . .), but the key to smart buying
really is how you're going to use the
display. With that in mind, you can focus on
what it is you're really looking for in each
technology.
Understanding
HDTV Resolution
What the numbers
mean, and what
really matters
If you're
shopping for an
HDTV, you've
probably seen
terms like
"720p" and
"1080p", or
"1366 x 768
pixels" used to
describe a
television's
resolution. But
what exactly do
those numbers
mean, and what
do they say
about a TV's
performance? In
this article,
we'll walk you
through the
basics of
resolution, and
give you some
practical tips
to help you
decide how high
a resolution you
need for your
new HDTV.
What is
resolution?
The main
reason
high-definition
TV pictures look
so much sharper
and clearer than
regular TV is
HDTV's higher
resolution.
In today's world
of digital TVs,
resolution is
measured in
pixels,
with more pixels
providing higher
resolution.
Old-fashioned
TVs had the
equivalent of
around 300,000
pixels, while
today's HDTVs
offer one to two
million — up to
six times
more. All those
additional
pixels mean a
huge jump in
picture quality.
The image on
the left
simulates
the picture
resolution
of an
old-fashioned
TV, while
the image on
the right
simulates
high-definition
TV. Notice
the soft
edges and
jagged lines
in the
non-HD
image.
When we talk
about picture
resolution,
we're actually
talking about
two things: the
resolution of
your TV's screen
and the
resolution of
the video source
(your DVD
player, cable
box, etc.). Both
are important,
and each can
affect the other
in determining
the quality of
the picture you
see. Let's take
a closer look at
each so you know
how they relate,
and how to get a
good
high-resolution
picture.
TV screen
resolution
Nearly all of
today's HDTVs
are "fixed-pixel
displays,"
meaning their
screens use a
fixed number of
pixels to
produce a
picture. That
includes
flat-panel
LCD
and plasma
TVs, as well as
front- and
rear-projection
types that use
DLP,
LCD, or LCoS
technology.
All of these
fixed-pixel
displays have a
native
resolution that
tells you the
maximum level of
image detail a
TV can produce.
Two of the most
common
resolutions are
768p
and
1080p,
though you may
also see 720p.
You may see
these same
resolutions
listed as "1366
x 768 pixels" or
"1920 x 1080
pixels." That
tells you
precisely how
many pixels the
screen actually
has: the first
number is the
horizontal
resolution
and the second
number is the
vertical
resolution.
Multiplying
these two
numbers gives
you a screen's
total pixel
count. As an
example, 1920 x
1080 = 2,073,600
pixels, which is
usually
simplified to "2
million." By
comparison, 1366
x 768 =
1,049,088 pixels
— slightly over
one million.
.gif)
These grids
simulate the
different-sized
pixels of
common TV
screen
resolutions,
from 480i
(the
resolution
of
old-fashioned
TVs) to
high-definition
720p and
1080p. As
resolution
increases,
the pixels
get smaller,
allowing
much finer
picture
detail to be
accurately
displayed.
Video source
resolution
The two most
common high-def
video source
resolutions are
720p
and
1080i.
All HDTV
broadcasts,
including local
over-the-air
broadcasts,
satellite and
cable signals,
use one of these
formats. 1080i
is the most
common
resolution, but
both formats
have their
benefits and
limitations:
|
1080i
has more
lines and
pixels to
show more
detail, so
it's great
for
slow-moving
programs
with lots of
close-ups —
think
Law and
Order
or nature
documentaries
on The
Discovery
Channel.
But the
"i"
tells you
that it's an
interlaced
format,
which means
fewer video
frames per
second, so
it doesn't
handle
fast-moving
video as
well as
720p.
|
| The
"p"
in
720p
tells you
it's a
progressive-scan
format,
which means
it presents
fast-moving
action much
more
cleanly.
It's ideal
for things
like sports
and
action-packed
video games.
|
What
about 1080p?
These days, the most talked-about HD format is 1080p,
which combines
the superior
resolution of
1080i with the
progressive-scan
smoothness of
720p. True 1080p
content is still
scarce, however;
it's mainly
available from
HD DVD and
Blu-ray
high-definition
disc players
and video
game consoles
such as the Xbox
360™ and PS3.
When you hear
1080p mentioned,
it's usually
referring to a
TV's screen
resolution
rather than a
source.
One more
thing
Another key thing to understand about video source resolution is that
it can also
limit how good
your HDTV's
picture looks.
If you give your
TV a
lower-resolution
source, like a
fuzzy analog
cable channel,
that's what
you'll see — a
high-def TV
can't transform
a poor picture
into a
great-looking
picture. If you
want to see true
high-definition
images on your
HDTV, you'll
need to feed it
a high-def
source — 720p,
1080i, or (in a
few cases)
1080p.
What "i" and
"p" mean, and
how they can
affect the level
of picture
detail
As we
mentioned
before, "i"
stands for
interlaced-scan
and "p" stands
for
progressive-scan.
These terms
originated when
all TVs used
picture tubes,
and images were
"scanned" —
painted across
the screen line
by line.
Interlaced-scan
images required
two passes to
create a
complete video
frame, while
progressive-scan
displayed the
entire frame
with just one
pass (see
illustration
below). The
frame rate for
interlaced video
is 30 frames per
second while
progressive-scan
video is 60
frames per
second.
Interlaced
scan
splits
each
video
frame
into two
"fields,"
displaying
all the
even
horizontal
scan
lines
(2,4,6)
in
1/60th
of a
second,
followed
by the
odd scan
lines
(1,3,5)
during
the next
1/60th
of a
second.
That
means
you'll
see a
complete
video
frame
every
1/30th
of a
second.
Progressive
scan, on
the
other
hand,
displays
all the
lines in
a single
sweep
(1,2,3,4).
You'll
see a
complete
frame
every
1/60th
of a
second.
|
The
bottom line
Today's digital TV displays are nearly all effectively progressive-scan,
so interlaced
and progressive
are mostly
relevant when
describing video
source signals
sent to the TV.
The main thing
to remember is
that a
progressive
signal has
twice as much
picture
information as
an equivalent
interlaced
signal, and
generally looks
a little more
solid and
stable, with
on-screen motion
that's more
fluid.
This graph
shows the
total amount
of picture
information
displayed at
each
resolution,
per second.
1080p's
combination
of high
screen
resolution
and
progressive-scan
frame rate
allow it to
deliver
twice as
much picture
information
as the other
options —
which means
a clearer,
smoother
picture.
Hopefully,
we'll see
more 1080p
content
soon.
What happens
if your TV and
video source
have different
resolutions?
This scenario
actually happens
all the time,
and fortunately
with today's
HDTVs, you don't
really need to
worry about it.
Whether the
resolution of
your video
source material
is low (VHS),
medium (DVD), or
high (HDTV), a
fixed-pixel TV
will always
automatically
convert or
scale
the video signal
to fit the
screen's native
resolution.
Scaling
lower-quality
signals to fit a
TV's
higher-resolution
screen is often
called
upconversion.
Upconversion
works great with
a good source
like DVD, but it
can't make snowy
analog antenna
reception or a
noisy cable
picture look
flawlessly crisp
and clear.
Similarly, if
the incoming
source has more
pixels than the
screen's native
resolution, the
video signal has
to be "downconverted."
It's like trying
to pour 10
pounds of sugar
into a 5-pound
bag: You have to
throw away some
detail to fit
the image on the
screen. That's
one of the
reasons
1080p
TVs are so
popular — they
can display
every pixel of
every available
high-def
resolution, so
they never have
to throw any
detail out. But
if you don't get
a 1080p TV,
don't worry —
downconverted
video can still
look great. The
best example is
1080i HD
broadcasts that
are
downconverted to
be viewed on
768p TVs.
Is 1080p for
you?
Despite the
fact that there
aren't many
1080p sources, a
1080p HDTV may
still be the way
to go. For one
thing, you'll
never have to
"throw away" any
detail from any
of your high-def
sources. And as
we mentioned
earlier, a 1080p
TV actually has
twice the
resolution of a
768p TV. So if
you want to
ensure that
you'll see every
exquisite
detail, a 1080p
set is an
excellent
choice. But
there are some
other factors to
consider. To
figure out where
resolution fits
on your priority
list, ask
yourself these
questions:
| How
large a
screen do
you want,
and how far
from your TV
will you be
sitting?
Chances are
you won't be
able to see
much
difference
between
1080p and
non-1080p
HDTVs unless
their
screens are
relatively
large (46"
or bigger).
Even then,
if you sit
at the
farther end
of our
recommended
viewing
distance
range,
you might be
just as
happy with a
768p or 720p
TV. But if
you plan to
get a larger
screen and
sit closer,
you'll
appreciate
the extra
detail 1080p
sets can
offer.
|
| Is 1080p
something
you're
willing to
pay extra
for? If you
want the
sharpest
picture
around, and
you don't
mind
spending
another few
hundred
dollars or
so to get
it, then the
answer is
yes. Plus,
you usually
find 1080p
resolution
in
upper-range
models that
also offer
superior
video
processing,
additional
inputs, and
more
advanced
features and
conveniences.
But you may
decide you'd
rather put
that money
toward a
larger
screen, or a
wall-mountable
flat-panel
TV instead
of a
less-pricey
rear-projection
model. |
|
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|
Top of page |
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|
What is
Blu-ray? 
Blu-ray players bring home theater to the next level with virtually flawless
picture and sound. But how do you know which one's right for you? Below, we'll
walk you through common Blu-ray features, as well as the gear you need to take
advantage of them, so you can make the most of your high-def home theater setup.
Blu-ray Disc: High-definition video up to 1080p
Blu-ray Disc™ is currently the best source of high-definition video. It
delivers images that are even more vibrant and lifelike than the best HD
television broadcasts. Blu-ray can deliver 1080p — the highest resolution
currently available. So if you're craving HD content, and are disappointed
with the inconsistent quantity and quality of the HD programming offered by
broadcasters and cable and satellite providers, a Blu-ray player might be right
for you.
 Do
I need a 1080p TV?
No. Blu-ray players let you select the resolution that best matches your TV.
When you pair a Blu-ray player with a 1080p display, you'll enjoy the most
detailed picture possible. But you'll still get an impressive HD picture with a
720p or 1080i set.
Next-generation audio for a more theater-like experience
In addition to high-definition video, Blu-ray also gives you more detailed
sound. Blu-ray Discs and players can provide the same Dolby® Digital and DTS®
soundtracks you've grown accustomed to with DVD, plus advanced new versions of
these formats:
| Dolby Digital Plus and
DTS-HD™ High Resolution (also known simply as
"DTS-HD") — Both offer up to 7.1-channel surround sound, for even
more enveloping audio than standard 5.1-channel Dolby Digital and DTS. They
also use less compression than their DVD counterparts for a more faithful
reproduction of the original movie soundtrack. |
| Dolby TrueHD and
DTS-HD Master Audio — These formats
use "lossless" compression to deliver soundtracks that are identical to the
movie studio's original master, for the closest possible reproduction of the
movie theater experience. Some discs also feature multichannel PCM
soundtracks — uncompressed audio that also matches the quality of the studio
master. |
 How
many movies include the new formats?
Of course, player support is just one side of the equation — these new formats
also need to appear on the disc for you to enjoy them. As of April 2009, most
Blu-ray Discs include one or more of the lossless formats — Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD
Master Audio, and PCM. About one-fifth include conventional Dolby Digital
soundtracks, and a handful of discs have soundtracks in Dolby Digital Plus
and/or DTS-HD High Resolution (keep in mind that a disc can include soundtracks
in more than one format).
Other considerations
Some Blu-ray players don't have the extra capabilities you may have grown
accustomed to with your DVD player. For example, some of the earliest models
couldn't play CDs. While all of our current models can, they don't necessarily
have the ability to play home-burned CD-Rs or CD-RWs. The same is true for
recordable DVDs.
Also, be aware that not all Blu-ray players can play discs filled with MP3 or
WMA files. For those that do, some players can play MP3s and WMAs on CD, but not
DVD, while for others it's the opposite. JPEG discs are also not compatible with
all Blu-ray players. So if you'd like to enjoy your music on MP3 or WMA, or
display JPEG images on your TV screen, be sure to look for a player that has
these capabilities.
Blu-ray raises disc technology to a new level
The DVD format was certainly a huge leap compared to VHS tapes, but
it has major shortcomings as an entertainment medium for the
high-definition era. DVD's compression scheme and disc structure were
designed for standard-definition video. As TVs have grown bigger and
better, the limitations of the DVD format have become more apparent.
When watching DVDs on some of the better 1080p HDTVs with screens of 50"
or larger, compression noise and artifacts are sometimes noticeable. Blu-ray,
on the other hand, offers 1080p resolution for an incredibly smooth,
detailed picture.
HD's much higher level of picture detail requires much more
information. So, any high-definition format requires much higher data
storage capacity (measured in gigabytes). Here's an example: a digital
recorder with a 250GB hard drive can store about 200 hours of
standard-definition video, but only about 30 hours of HD video. HD's
superior picture quality also requires much faster data transfer rates
(often called "bit rates") from the player to your TV (measured in
megabits per second — Mbps). If the flow of information from a DVD
player to a TV could be characterized as a babbling brook, the flow from
a high-definition player would be a roaring river.
|
|
DVD-Video |
Blu-ray Disc |
|
Disc capacity (gigabytes) |
single-layer (4.7GB); dual-layer (8.5GB) |
single-layer (25GB); dual-layer (50GB) |
|
Maximum picture resolution (pixels) |
720 x 480 (SDTV) |
1920 x 1080 (HDTV) |
|
Maximum data transfer rate for movie
playback (Megabits per second) |
11Mbps |
54Mbps |
|
Video codecs |
MPEG-2 |
AVC MPEG-4, VC-1, MPEG-2 |
|
Audio codecs |
Dolby Digital, DTS |
Dolby® Digital, Dolby Digital Plus, Dolby TrueHD (lossless),
DTS®, DTS-HD™ High Resolution Audio, DTS-HD Master Audio
(lossless) |
|
Content protection |
Content Scrambling System (CSS) 40-bit, region coding |
Advanced Access Content System (AACS) 128-bit, BD+, ROM Mark,
region coding |
As the chart makes clear, Blu-ray discs provide much
greater data storage capacity and faster bit rates than standard DVD.
Translation: much improved picture and sound quality.
Fitting more data on the disc
Even though high-definition video requires so much more data,
high-def discs can easily hold even the longest movies on a single disc.
Blu-ray discs can hold multiple hours of HD content, with plenty of room
to spare for the bonus features you may have grown accustomed to with
DVD. The developers of Blu-ray couldn't make the disc physically larger,
so in order to significantly increase the information storage capacity,
they increased the data density. The information pits got smaller, and
the spacing of the pit rows got tighter (see illustration below). The
discs also have a super-thin transparent protective coating, which
places the data layer closer to the disc's surface and thus closer to
the laser. In order to read these much smaller data pits, Blu-ray
players use a blue-violet laser, which has a shorter wavelength and a
smaller "beam spot" than the red laser used in DVD players. The players
also spin the discs at higher speeds for even faster data transfer.
|
Putting high-definition video on a disc
requires much higher storage capacity than DVDs allow. Compared
to DVD and HD DVD, Blu-ray discs have smaller data pits and more
closely spaced pit rows.
|
|
Storing high-definition video requires
much higher data density than standard DVDs allow. Blu-ray discs
have smaller data "pits" and more closely spaced pit rows
compared to DVDs and HD DVDs. Blu-ray players require a blue
laser to read these smaller pits. In Blu-ray players, the
laser's higher "numerical aperture" (NA) allows the beam to be
focused to create a tighter spot for reading smaller pits.
|
Codecs
At the core of all recent digital entertainment forms is the concept of
data "compression." Compression is needed to squeeze digital content so
that it takes up a minimum of storage space. Compression is what made
video formats like DVD and HDTV possible, as well as audio formats like
Dolby Digital and MP3. The digital data is compressed for transmission
or encoding on a disc, and then decompressed by your player. These
compression/decompression technologies are often referred to as "codecs"
for short.
MPEG-2 is the video codec used for DVDs and current HDTV content,
including broadcast, cable and most satellite TV. Blu-ray also uses
MPEG-2, as well as two newer, higher-efficiency codecs: AVC MPEG-4 and
VC-1 (based on Windows Media Video 9). Because Blu-ray employs such high
bit rates (54Mbps, compared to 19.2Mbps for over-the-air HDTV), the
picture quality of Blu-ray discs is exceptionally clean, with fewer
visible compression artifacts.
The expanded storage capacity of Blu-ray also makes it possible for
these discs to offer dramatically improved sound quality. The fact that
Dolby Digital sounds as good as it does is remarkable considering how
aggressive the compression is for DVDs. High-definition discs have much
more space available for soundtracks, and often feature new,
higher-quality codecs from Dolby and DTS. One of Dolby's new formats,
Dolby Digital Plus, offers up to 7.1-channel surround sound for even
more enveloping audio than standard 5.1-channel Dolby Digital. There are
even "lossless" options, Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio, which
deliver the closest possible reproduction of the movie studio's original
master. Many Blu-ray titles feature multichannel LPCM soundtracks —
uncompressed audio that should also match the quality of the studio
master.
What
exactly is HDMI?
Today's high-definition home theaters run on digital
audio and video, and HDMI™ is the connection of
choice. That's because HDMI ( High-Definition
Multimedia Interface) delivers crystal-clear
digital video and audio via a single cable,
dramatically simplifying cabling and helping A/V
fans enjoy the best possible home theater
experience.
In this article, we'll explain what HDMI is and
how it differs from conventional analog connections,
and include some quick tips on choosing HDMI cables.
You'll also learn what the exact differences are
among the evolving versions of HDMI. And finally,
we'll look at some real-world HDMI hookup issues
along with solutions and workarounds.
HDMI: The "king" of high-quality connections
HDMI's pure-digital interface is the best way to
connect high-resolution components — like
upconverting DVD players, HD DVD and Blu-ray Disc™
players, the PlayStation® 3 and Xbox 360™ game
consoles, and some HD-capable satellite and cable TV
set-top boxes — to HDMI-equipped high-definition
TVs. And increasingly, devices that are inserted
between the source components and the TV — like home
theater receivers and video switchers — also include
HDMI connections.
Increasingly, home
theater fans find HDMI to be the best way to
connect components to HDTVs. |
Of course, HDMI isn't the first digital video
connection for home theater — that distinction
belongs to DVI. But DVI, a video-only interface, was
originally developed for computer use, while HDMI
was designed from the ground up for use with home
audio/video gear. Thanks to its superior capacity,
versatility, and ease of use, HDMI has largely
replaced DVI in home theater equipment.
Single-cable convenience, plus so much more
The ability to send high-definition video and
multichannel audio over a single cable is unique to
HDMI, but this interface offers other big
advantages. A standard HDMI connector has 19 pins,
which carry not only audio and video data, but also
2-way control and identification information, and
even low-voltage power. HDMI provides maximum signal
integrity and a secure, "smart" link between devices
— it's one of the best ways to "future-proof" your
system. Here are two more reasons to look for HDMI
when upgrading your gear:
| Superb picture and sound quality:
HDMI connections keep audio and video signals in
the digital language of 1s and 0s, eliminating
the compromised picture and sound quality caused
by digital-to-analog conversions and
reconversions. HDMI supports video resolutions
up to 1080p, which is key for the new
1080p-capable HDTVs and high-definition disc
players. Although there are a few TVs that
accept 1080p signals via DVI or component video,
it's nearly impossible to find a high-def source
that can supply 1080p over anything besides HDMI.
And HDMI's sound capability now supports up to 8
channels of super-high-quality 24-bit 192kHz
audio. |
| Industrial-strength copy protection:
This probably seems like more of a benefit for
content owners like movie studios than for
consumers, but it directly affects the quantity
and quality of what we can watch — now, and in
the coming years. HDMI's wide adoption is due in
large part to Hollywood's demands for
ever-stronger copy protection measures to
prevent piracy. HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital
Content Protection) is present on virtually all
HDMI-equipped devices even though it's not
officially part of the HDMI spec. Without HDCP,
both the quantity and quality of high-def
content available to consumers would almost
certainly be more limited than it is.
However, HDCP also has a downside. One of its
main jobs is to "authenticate" the connection
between two components via a "digital
handshake," and problems with this handshake
process can result in the loss or degradation of
picture and sound. |
Quick tips for choosing HDMI cables
Some components include an HDMI cable in the box,
but most don't, so you'll need one to connect your
gear for the best picture and sound. You won't see
dramatic differences in picture quality among HDMI
cables. Unlike analog video transmission, which can
display varying degrees of picture quality, digital
video transmission either delivers a clean, clear
picture or no picture at all. But you'll still want
to choose a high-quality HDMI cable, like from
WireWorld Cables,
especially for longer lengths or in-wall
installations. Different cables use different
materials and construction techniques, and some are
rated by the manufacturer to maintain maximum signal
quality over longer cable lengths. Some users have
encountered interoperability issues when making HDMI
connections, but these are almost never the fault of
the cable itself.
Before an HDMI cable can carry the HDMI logo, it
must be tested at an HDMI Authorized Testing Center.
The tolerances for HDMI cables are incredibly tight:
the length of each strand of wire must be within
1/20,000th of an inch to ensure it will work
properly.
An evolving standard
In this fast-changing
era of new formats and
technologies, HDMI is
the accepted universal
connector for digital
home entertainment. The
HDMI spec was developed
by a group of companies
including Hitachi,
Matsushita (Panasonic),
Philips, Silicon Image,
Sony, Thomson (RCA) and
Toshiba. It's also
supported by movie
studios like Fox,
Universal, Warner Bros.,
and Disney, as well as
satellite providers
DIRECTV® and DISH™
Network, and CableLabs®
(an R&D consortium that
develops new
technologies for cable
TV operators). Over 800
companies are currently
building HDMI-equipped
products.
Many new TVs
have two or more
HDMI inputs. The
lower input
includes stereo
audio jacks for
backward
compatibility
with DVI-equipped
video
components. |
The HDMI standard
continues to evolve to
meet the needs of
high-performance home
theater equipment. All
versions of HDMI are
backward compatible with
previous versions, as
well as with DVI
(however, a DVI
connection passes video
only, not audio). Part
of the built-in
intelligence of HDMI
enables it to
automatically send the
highest quality video
and audio formats that
are mutually
supported. In other
words, if you connect
two devices, one with
HDMI version 1.1 and the
other with 1.2, the
system will be limited
to the 1.1 feature set.
Although you'll often
see the HDMI version
listed as part of a
component's
specifications, it's
probably best not to pay
much attention to it.
For specific details
about a particular
component's audio and
video capabilities,
you're better off
focusing on the
component's feature
list. A product's HDMI
version by itself
doesn't mean that all
the latest features have
been implemented; it
does not guarantee
a particular feature
set. The reason is that
the capabilities listed
for each version of HDMI
are optional, not
mandatory.
It's up to each
manufacturer to decide
which HDMI features to
build into its gear. A
perfect example is 1080p
video input capability.
Although the original
HDMI 1.0 spec included
1080p video (before
1080p TVs even
existed!), it wasn't
until 2006 that a
significant number of
HDTVs included
1080p-capable HDMI
inputs.
Do I need to worry
about compatibility
between HDMI versions?
Although there have been
multiple versions of the
HDMI spec, there haven't
been any physical
changes to the HDMI
connectors on cables and
components. That means
you don't have to worry
about buying a cable
that's "rated" for a
particular HDMI version.
Plus, each new HDMI
version is backwards
compatible with older
versions, so your older
and newer HDMI-equipped
components can generally
still work together.
So what are the
differences between
different HDMI versions?
Take a look at our
summary of HDMI's
evolution below:
| HDMI
1.0: The
original spec called
for a single-cable
digital audio/video
connection with
165MHz bandwidth and
a maximum bitrate of
4.9Gbps (enough for
1080p video).
Two-channel audio
only. Released
December, 2002. |
| HDMI
1.1: Added
multichannnel audio
support for
DVD-Audio (up to 5.1
channels). Released
May, 2004. |
| HDMI
1.2: Added
support for
multichannel one-bit
audio formats like
SACD (Super Audio
CD). Included
support for HDMI
connectors on
personal computers.
Required displays
with HDMI 1.2 or
later to support
future low-voltage
devices. Released
August, 2005. |
| HDMI
1.2a: Fully
specified the
Consumer Electronic
Control (CEC)
features and command
sets for remote
control functions.
Required cable
manufacturers to
submit longer cable
lengths for
additional testing
for spec compliance.
For a device to pass
1.2a testing,
all of its HDMI
connectors required
inspection and
approval by HDMI
Licensing, LLC.
Released December,
2005. |
| HDMI
1.3:
Increased bandwidth
to 340MHz and the
maximum bitrate to
10.2 Gbps (plus the
capability for
higher bandwidth in
the future). Adopted
the "Deep Color"
standard, which
supports 10-bit,
12-bit, and 16-bit
color for over one
billion possible
colors — previous
versions were
limited to 8-bit. (Note:
Because color
information is based
on three primary
colors — red, green
and blue — you'll
sometimes see 1.3's
enhanced color depth
described as 30-bit,
36-bit, and 48-bit.)
Added support for
the "xvYCC"
extended-gamut color
space standard (also
known as x.v.Color),
which supports 1.8
times as many colors
as existing HDTV
signals. (No
commercially
available video
content currently
uses Deep Color or
x.v.Color.) Added
ability to output
new lossless
compressed digital
audio formats
(Dolby® TrueHD and
DTS-HD Master
Audio™) for decoding
by a compatible A/V
receiver.
Incorporated
automatic "lip sync"
control for perfect
audio/video timing
(sometimes an issue
when audio is sent
to a surround
receiver or
processor and video
is delivered
directly to the
display). Also made
available a new
mini-connector for
use with smaller
devices such as
digital cameras and
camcorders. Released
June, 2006.
The 1.3 spec has
been recently
updated to
1.3a,
followed by
1.3b.
However, for
consumers, there is
no difference
between versions
1.3, 1.3a or 1.3b.
These are minor
revisions that
relate to
manufacturing and
testing issues and
do not affect
features or
functionality.
|
Top of page
Audio and Video Cables: Does
Quality Matter?
Whether you're a hardcore gearhead or you just
bought your first home theater system, you want to
get the most out of your audio/video equipment.
Poorly made cables can allow noise and interference
to compromise the signals coming from your source
components, resulting in a subpar listening or
viewing experience. If you owned a
high-performance sports car, you wouldn't outfit it
with low-end tires — you'd get insufficient
traction, poor handling, and increased road noise.
You'd lose all the benefits of buying a
high-performance car in the first place. In the same
way, low-quality cables can rob you of the
performance you paid for when you bought your
system.
Many A/V components don't include all the cables
you need; some may include a cable whose length
isn't right for your setup. And, when cables are
included, they're always low-quality. Replace those
free "in-the-box" cables with higher-quality ones,
and enjoy more realistic sound and a clearer
picture.
Anatomy of a cable
There are three main parts of a cable which
affect signal quality: the conductor, the shielding,
and the connector. The conductor is
the part of the cable through which the signal
actually passes. Since the conductor is basically a
wire which can act as an antenna to receive radio
frequency interference (RFI) and electromagnetic
interference (EMI), a good cable also includes some
kind of shielding, to filter out
these potential sources of noise. The
connector is the part of the cable that
actually comes into contact with your gear; types of
connectors include RCA, S-video, and F-type.
DYNAMIC AUDIO VIDEO proudly
carries
WireWorld Audio
Cables
Do I really need a SURGE
PROTECTOR / POWER CONDITIONER for my equipment?
 For a lot of folks, power protection means plugging
everything into an inexpensive power strip with a
circuit breaker. While that can be adequate for some
electronic devices, general purpose power strips may
not fully protect sensitive audio/video components
from damaging power spikes. And they seldom filter
out the everyday electronic interference from your
home's circuitry, phone line, and cable connections
that can affect your system's performance. Power
protection components come with a variety of options
to meet the specialized needs of various systems. In
this article, we'll explain those options.
Why do I need power protection, anyway?
You probably know someone who has lost a TV or
computer to a power surge during a thunderstorm.
Preventing that kind of damage is a big part of what
power protection does. After all, unplugging your TV
during a storm may not be enough; if your cable box
or satellite receivers remain connected, you've left
a "back door" open for that lightning strike.
Less dramatic — though more pervasive — is the
damage done to audio/video systems by minor
fluctuations in power, sometimes called "brown
outs." Electromagnetic interference and radio
frequency interference generated either by other
devices in the home (like vacuum cleaners and
blenders) or sources outside it (like nearby power
lines or radio towers) can also impair your system's
performance.
Inexpensive power strips seldom offer that level
of protection. They normally just break the
connection if too much power comes through the line.
And even there, cheap strips can fall down on the
job. Because general purpose power strips have
higher tolerances than expensive audio/video
equipment, a surge that could damage your components
could pass through the strip and still be under the
voltage required to trip the circuit breaker.
To select the right power protection unit, you
should consider the components it will be connected
to — both now and in the foreseeable future.
Surge protection
Lightning strikes or power company overloads can
create surges that could fry your gear in less than
a second. If all your audio/video gear is plugged
into a surge protector with AC outlets, you might
think your system is protected. But these power
spikes can also come into your home through your
phone line, your cable TV line, and your satellite
signal line. You'll want to make sure the power
protection device you choose can accommodate all
of the lines that connect to your system.
Surge protectors sacrifice themselves to save
your equipment. They're designed to be the weakest
link in the chain from the power source to your
equipment, and include circuit breakers or fuses
that immediately sever the connection when a large
electrical spike hits.
Many surge protectors can also sense if your
home's wiring is properly grounded, and will alert
you if a fault is detected. Improper grounding is
often the source for audible low-level hums in your
speakers.
Better quality surge protectors usually carry
warranties that cover damage to connected equipment
if they fail to contain a power spike.
Line conditioning
Electromagnetic and radio frequency interference
(EMI and RFI) won't fry your A/V gear, but they can
hinder its performance. Devices with digital inputs
and outputs, such as DVD players, receivers and LCD
TVs, seem especially susceptible to "dirty power."
| EMI is caused by an
electromagnetic field generated close to your
system. Sometimes it can be contained in the
current that comes into your home. A washing
machine, vacuum cleaner, or blender can add a
loud buzzing or a low hum to your audio system.
EMI can also affect the quality of your TV
picture in the form of "snow" or overall reduced
clarity.
|
| RFI results from radio
waves that can be generated by radiostations,
microwaves, cell phones, lawn mowers, and many
other sources. These interference patterns often
originate a great distance from your home, and
can be heard as clicks and pops. Your home's
electrical circuitry can act as a crude antenna,
sending RF signals through your system's power
cords and into your gear. Sometimes cell phone
conversations or nearby radio transmissions can
actually be heard through your system's
speakers. RFI can also cause "snow" in your TV's
picture, dulling image details and washing out
contrast. |
A power protection component with line
conditioning can remove most of this interference,
allowing your system to perform at its full
potential.
But aren't all Power Conditioners the
same?
No, they are not! The average surge suppressor or power strip
offers little in the way of protection and doesn't filter or clean contaminated
power at all. However,
Furman power conditioners, available through
DYNAMIC AUDIO VIDEO, always offer a high level of protection and
purification.
ELITE-15 PF i
LINEAR FILTERING AC POWER
SOURCE
Description of Furman's ELITE-15
PF i
For over 33 years, Furman has
pioneered the development of AC
power products for the most
demanding audio, video, and
broadcast professionals. Though the
need for pristine AC power is
nothing new, the Elite-15 Power
Factor i's technology and its unique
implementation are revolutionary and
without peer.
The extreme AC demands
encountered in the professional
audio/video arena have required
technological developments far in
excess of typical home
theater/audiophile power products.
In studios, live sound, and
broadcast facilities, breakdown is
unacceptable. Equipment failure or
poor performance is costly. The same
is true of today's home theater. Our
solution based technology, extensive
engineering expertise, and robust
build quality have answered the
challenge of today's corrupted power
lines, and led to the creation of
the Elite-15 PF i.
Today's power lines are plagued
with RF and EMI noise. When
connecting sensitive equipment to
your home's power outlet, AC noise
couples into your system's critical
components. This AC noise masks low
level signals and cripples
performance. This low level content
is critical because it relays the
crucial harmonics and ambience in
audio, as well as the depth and
clarity in video. With Furman's
exclusive Linear Filtering
Technology, televisions, projectors,
DVD players, amplifiers, and
processors are fed linearlyfiltered
AC power. This dramatically reduces
noise, ensuring consistent peak
operation regardless of load
conditions or the time of day. For
the first time, you will see and
hear your theater or audio system as
it should be — uncompromised.
Another critical feature is our
exclusive Series Multi-Stage
Protection. This virtually
maintenance-free surge suppression
assures the highest level of AC
protection possible, without
sacrificing itself when the
offending surge is severe — no
damaged equipment, no service calls,
no down time. Further, our famous
retractable front panel LED lamps
allow easy viewing of either a rack
or cabinet full of equipment, even
when your theater lights are off.
The Elite-15 PF i also features
remote control capability via 12V
triggering, compatible with the 12V
triggering devices commonly found in
power receivers and pre-amp
processors. Additional products
(such as a remote subwoofer) can be
daisy-chained from the 12V output
jack for an additional triggered
unit. The 12V triggering feature may
be bypassed if desired.
At the center of the Elite-15 PF
i is our unique Power Factor
Technology. For the first time,
low-level analog, digital, and video
components are not modulated or
distorted via the power amplifier's
extreme AC current demands. Further,
the power amplifier sees a highly
filtered, extremely low-impedance
supply of AC power. The Elite-15 PF
i, in fact, has in excess of 3 Amps
of continuous current reserve (over
45 amps peak charge) for the most
extreme peak power demands. This
technology enables power amplifiers
and powered subwoofers to operate at
peak efficiency, reaching levels of
performance previously unattainable.
No longer will your amplifier's
performance be at the mercy of your
home's incoming AC power or inferior
AC protection/filtering devices. The
net effect is as if your power
amplifier virtually doubled in power
and improved immeasurably in
quality.
When employing the Elite-15 PF i,
you will immediately notice far
clearer, stunningly focused sound
and visual images from your system.
Video presentation will be crisp and
colors true with greater gray and
black scale definition, as well as
noticeably improved depth and
clarity. Sonic transients will be
startlingly fast with bass
fundamentals that shake foundations
with their weight and visceral
impact. Mid and high frequencies
will bloom with sweet, non-glaring
ease while imaging improves
dramatically, all the while
remaining true to your system's
inherent virtues.
|
|
Why should I purchase
equipment from Dynamic Audio Video and not the internet?
 While
you may find what look like great deals on the Internet, remember
that you generally get what you pay for. Open box demonstration
products or refurbished units are often sold as "new" to
unsuspecting customers. Even worse, unscrupulous, unauthorized
dealers often strip off or replace serial numbers of "gray market"
or even stolen goods to hide their true origin. These goods are not
covered by any manufacturer's warranty. You are on your own with
these orphaned products. And even legitimate goods may not meet your
expectations or may arrive damaged in transit, necessitating costly
and inconvenient returns. Most Authorized Dealers do not solicit
business outside their local trading area. While the Internet is a
great place to gather information and to find a local dealer, we do
not recommend it as the best place to purchase audio video
equipment.
Our recommendation: DO NOT BUY SIGHT
UNSEEN. BUY ONLY FROM AUTHORIZED DEALERS.
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